Cabin Spark QUILT sew-ALONG: week 3 - Flippy corners and Block construction

WELCOME to the third week of the Cabin Spark QUILT sew-ALONG!

If you have been following along through my Instagram account, then you know that there's still time to add your fabric pull to the Cabin Spark QAL pool in order to be qualified for the upcoming giveaway. 

You can eventually subscribe to my newsletter but only if you wish to obtain some freebies, coupon codes and news (which can be pretty amazing too☺️). 

Cabin Spark quilt-along schedule:

 

• Week 1, October 24 - Kickoff + Fabric Pull 
• Week 2, October 31 - Cutting Party
• Week 3, November 7 - Block Construction
• Week 4, November 14 - Layout + Assembly
• Week 5, November 21 - Quilting + Finish

Here's the quilt pattern, that can be purchased in my Etsy shop.

Here are some quilt shops that have the fabric kits available:

• Golden Girls Fabric company - US

• Tulips 'n Quilts - Canada

And here's the video where you can watch me doing flippy corners and assembling the first log cabin block!

Log cabins are such a joy to sew! Once you’re organized — especially if you’re working with directional prints, like the centers in this design — the chances of mistakes are minimal, so it’s pure fun from start to finish.

Flippy corners are created using stitch and flip technique that saves fabric and time, but it’s very important to align fabric pieces precisely and stitch the diagonal lines accurately, as there is no trimming involved.
 
Pre-mark the stitching lines on the wrong side of the solid fabric squares and rectangles that will be used for the corners, paying close attention to their direction. Since these corners are mirrored, keep in mind that they mirror horizontally within the same strip, while logs 10 and 11 are also mirrored between them. 

The same rule applies to logs 12 and 13, which use rectangles. You can follow this more easily by referring to the diagrams on page 4 of the pattern.

I strongly suggest to do all the prep work and markings on a cutting mat with the 45 degree angles marked to help you draw an accurate stitching line going from one corner to another.
In order to align both corners of the rectangles precisely and to avoid eventual fabric shifting, I suggest to glue baste them just at the corner with any type of washable glue stick. As that corner will be trimmed off, you will however not have to deal with any unwanted residues. In case you don’t like using glue with your sewing supplies, you can still pin or clip these fabrics together. 

I personally prefer to glue baste the rectangles first and then draw the diagonal line with the fabric units gathered already, as it’s much easier and precise to be guided like that. I am just taking care about positioning nicely the corners where the line will go through, against my cutting mat where the 45 degree line will serve as my guide.
With the wrong side up, press or use a water-soluble marker or pencil to mark all your 2” squares and 2” × 3½” rectangles (in the corresponding corner fabrics) diagonally from corner to corner. This diagonal mark will serve as your sew line.
 

Make sure to create mirrored sets of logs with flippy corners for each block, taking care about desired log placement, if working with directional prints!
 
LOGS 10 and 11:
Pay close attention to the orientation of each corner square.
Place, align and glue or pin 2” corner squares (right sides together) on the upper corners of the 2” × 12” rectangles keeping edges perfectly aligned.
Sew along the central diagonal line — or just slightly inside the line (toward the inner side of the corner, just like doing for the scant seam) — for perfectly sharp points.
Trim off the corners, leaving a ¼” seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open or toward the darker fabric. Pressing seams open reduces bulk and makes it easier to match points later.

LOGS 12 and 13:
We will repeat that same  process as for the logs 10 and 11 with only difference that now we are using the rectangles for the corners, so just make sure to positiona nd mark your rectangles accurately, as shown on the diagram and sew, cut off the the triangle left over and press.

Repeat the same process for all your blocks.

Block construction: 

1. Start with the Center

Your 6” square (whether a plain fabric, fussy-cut panel, or mini block) is the heart of the design. 

2. Add Logs in Sequence

Log cabin blocks are built outward in rounds. Following the diagram on the page 5, begin by attaching the first log to one side of the center, press the seam. Continue adding logs in order, always pressing seams before moving to the next side. This method helps keep the block flat and consistent.

Pro tip: Chain-piecing multiple blocks at once will save time and keep the rhythm going.

3. Maintain Consistent Seams

Use a scant ¼” seam allowance throughout. Even a small shift in seam size can add up across 12 logs, so consistency is key for blocks that finish square.

4. Keep Checking Size

After completing each “round” of logs, give the block a quick measure. This helps catch any small inaccuracies early before they compound. 

With 6” centers, each finished block should square up exactly to the size noted -15”.

Please feel free to contact me with any questions, suggestions or comments either here or on Instagram.

Katarina