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Sunday, 18 October 2020

Moresco table runner


I always wanted to make one simple table runner for my table and finally I did it! I used one of my first quilt patterns that was featuring my very first fabric collection, Indelible and adapted it a bit to make this very easy to make table runner.

You can see the original pattern HERE.

And here are the measurements/requirements for this table runner:

Finished size: 27.5 x 54.5 “ (70 x 138 cm)

Block size: 14 x 14”

Total blocks per table runner: 8 (4 blocks A and 4 blocks B)

Seam allowance: ¼”

Based on the 42” wide fabric.

 

The whole quilt is constructed with 2 ½ strips. Each block is composed of 7 rows. 

There are 4 blocks in one orientation (blocks A) and 4 blocks in mirror-image orientation (blocks B)

 

Fabric A: PIC-39454 Painted Field Tangerine                                       1/6 yd

Fabric B: PIC-39457 Botanical Study Soft                                            1/6 yd

Fabric C: PIC-29458 Mystical Quest by Night                                     1/6 yd

Fabric D: PIC-29457 Botanical Study Dark                                          1/6 yd

Fabric E: PIC-29454 Painted Field Cerise                                             1/6 yd

Fabric F: PIC-29451 Arts & Crafts Rose                                               1/8 yd

Fabric G: PIC-39456 Bound Treasures Blush                                        1/8 yd

Fabric H: PIC-39455 Ornatile Vert                                                         1/6 yd

Fabric I: PIC-39458 Mystical Quest by Day                                          1/8 yd

Fabric J: PIC-39451 Arts & Crafts Cloud                                              1/8 yd

Fabric K: PE-433 Snow                                                                          5/8 yd             

Fabric L: PE-413 Caviar     or   PIC-29456                                            1/3 yd

 

 

Binding fabric: 1/2  yds (suggested)

Backing fabric: 1 3/4  yds (suggested)

 

 

Cutting directions:

¼ seam allowances are included

 

eight (88.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric A

eight (8) 8.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric B   

eight (8) 8.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric C   

eight (8) 8.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric D   

eight (8) 6.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric E   

eight (8) 4.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric F   

eight (8) 2.5” x 2.5” squares from Fabric G   

eight (8) 6.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric H   

eight (8) 4.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric I    

eight (8) 2.5” x 2.5” squares from Fabric J    

eight (8) 2.5” x 2.5”  squares from Fabric K

eight (8) 4.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric K

hundred (32) 6.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric K

eight (8) 2.5” x 2.5”  squares from Fabric L

eight (8) 4.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric L

eight (8) 6.5” x 2.5” rectangles from Fabric L


                                                BLOCK A   and   BLOCK B



And here's the assembled table runner:



If there will be some interest, I will probably write the PDF pattern soon, but hopefully this can help enough for anyone willing to create it ;)



Enjoy,
Katarina

Wednesday, 14 October 2020

Dunes quilt block - pillow tutorial


Last year, I was asked to create something simple and fun for the Simple sewing magazine, featuring my color master designer box collection. So I designed this easy block constructed with 3" HSTs and turned it into a pillow, actually I made two;)

I was brainstorming ideas for the pillows for my just released Picturesque collection and as HTS are always a good idea for the pillow covers, I used the same block! I also got some HST left overs, so I created another composition, but I will show them both in my next blog post, just wanted to have the original version saved here, before ;)


So here it goes:


Decorative pillow covers are the easiest and fastest way to change the home décor, without major investment. Bold and funky patterns can sometimes be too much or too busy if used in bigger home décor projects, but can be awesome if used for smaller scales projects, like pillows, to embellish and add a touch of color and pattern in your home space. Additionally, quilting adds a bit of texture and stabilize the sewing/piecing, while trimming around the edges, adds a modern look.


To get the printable template, download it HERE

 

The featured fabrics: “Paprounes Crimson”, “Uninhibited Fashion”, “Steps Above Prism”, “Greeka Fouxia” and  “Morse Dot Sun” from the “Designer’s palette, edition #1” by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics.

 

Materials

For 1 pillow, finished size 15 x 15”

 

-Fabrics:

Fabric A:  Paprounes Crimson, Fat eight

Fabric B:  Uninhibited Fashion, Fat quarter

Fabric C:  Steps Above Prism, 5/8 yard

Fabric D:  Greeka Fouxia, Fat eight

Fabric E:  Morse Dot Sun, Fat eight

Decorative trim (pom-pom or similar): 2 yds

-Medium weight, one-sided fusible interfacing or batting - 16 x 16” piece 

-Pompom or other decoratiove trim, 65” long (2 yds)

-16x16” or 15x15” pillow insert

-Cutting mat and rotary cuter* optional

-Ruler  

-Scissors

-Iron

-Needle and thread

-Sewing machine

-Pins

-Fabric pencil or marker

 

 

CUTTING:

¼ seam allowances are included

 

Two (2) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric A

Ten (10) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric B

Two (2) 17“ x 22” rectangles from Fabric B (for pillow back)

Ten (10) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric C

Eight (8) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric D

Six (6) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric E

 

 

Pillow front

 

To make the pillow front, there are total of 36 HSTs (half-square triangles).

Guided by the cutting and fabric requirements, make the following HSTs:

 

A+B    make 4

B+C    make 16

E+D    make 12

D+C    make 4

 


HSTs construction:

 

Place and align two 4” x 4” squares in corresponding prints, right sides together and with a marker or pencil draw a diagonal line across the wrong side of the fabric. Sew a 1/4" seam on both sides of the drawn line. Cut the squares on the drawn line. In this way, you will obtain two HST’s. Press seams either open or to one side, upon your preferences. Pressing the seams open eliminates bulk and makes it easier to match the seams. Trim HSTs to 3 x 3”.

 

Following the quilt block diagram, compose the quilt block: start by joining the HST units (as shown in diagram) in order to obtain the horizontal rows. Sew all right sides together with ¼ seam allowance. Press the seams. Join the composed horizontal rows to complete the block. Press the seams. Fuse the interfacing on the wrong side of the block /pillow front or pin the piece of batting and quilt it. If needed, trim and square the pillow front. 

 

Adding the trim

 

With right side of the pillow front up, start pinning the trim all way around, starting from one corner and rounding it slightly on all corners. Sew the trimming in place, with the smallest seam allowance possible, finishing where you started, overlapping the trim’s edges.

 

Note: there are different weights, qualities and sizes of the trims, and depending on that, you may be able or not to slightly round the corners for the nice and professional finish. Thinner and softer trimmings are more suitable for shaping, while with thicker trimmings, you may be forced to cut the trimming separately for each of the pillow’s edges and overlap the edges on all corners. 

 

Pillow back

 

The easiest way to make the pillow back is with simple envelope back. 

Take the rectangles cut for the pillow back, fold and press them on the longer side (22”) in half, wrong sides inside, so that you obtain two 17 x 11” pieces. 

 

Pillow assemble

 

 

Overlap the back pieces, squaring them and place the pillow front with right side inside-facing the overlapped backs. Pin all layers together and cut the backs leftover edges to the size of the pillow front- 15.5 x 15.5”. Sew around all edges with ¼ seam allowance, rounding the corners slightly, to prevent protruding. Turn the pillow case right side out and place the pillow insert inside.




xx

Katarina

Tuesday, 14 April 2020

Fabric face mask tutorial


Hi!
It's been a while...and maybe I wouldn't even pop up, if it wasn't for this new Pandemic situation that, unfortunately we are all living at the moment.



About a month ago, I started making fabric masks, as a necessity, because we couldn't buy them in the pharmacies - they were sold out and of course, the medical facilities needed them more then ever.
I saw on the internet, especially Instagram, that in many countries that were firstly "attacked" with this nasty virus, people started making different kinds of fabric masks, so I started testing and trying different kinds of patterns.

The one that I liked the most, was kindly sent to me from a fabric friend on Instagram - Nida and here, I am bringing the pattern that I slightly changed (mainly regarding the filter placement opening).
I really like the fact that it sits on the face nicely, and the nose part is nicely covered, without use of additional wire, but it can eventually also be added.

There are also  many tutorials providing different kinds of elastic or tie options, and I suppose that it can depend on the personal preferences, availability or maybe even some strict rules, that certain facilities have set as parameter or best solution.

Art Gallery fabrics collected and shared many useful and helpful info regarding some fabric facts and also different pattern options on their newly created webpage, so I suggest that you look at it.

Here's the printable fitted face mask PDF pattern. You can find the IGTv video HERE


In case that you don't have the printer at home, I am attaching here also the original pattern I got from Nida, that is very easy to be drafted, following the measurements she provided.


My youngest daughter Bianka (modelling her homemade masks), helped me a lot in making and sewing masks and also created the video for how to make it (by herself!), and you may find it on my Instagram and as my first ever IGTV.

Happy sewing!
Katarina









Saturday, 28 December 2019

Earthen fabrics and matching AGF solids


It's hard to believe that another year has come to its end, but the great news ise that my fabric collection - Earthen is now available in quilt and craft shops!




As I got many inquires about the matching pure elements-solids, I thought to post the best matching options here too.
So here are 2 groups, smaller and bigger that might be convent for your projects (that I can't wait to see!!)

Bigger:



and smaller:


Earthen look book will be out on January 3rd, so there will be many projects that can inspire your creativity!!!
Happy Holidays,
Katarina

Tuesday, 5 November 2019

Twisted knot knit headband tutorial

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Knit or jersey fabric headbands are so comfy to wear and very easy to sew. In the upcoming Holidays season, they are wonderful for gift giving!!!
As this project requires just a small fabric rectangle, it is also a great way to use your fabric scraps or to up-cycle some old t-shirt.
But, be aware, making these can be addictive, so it may also lead to some fabric shopping!

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There are many types and weights of knit fabrics, but what's important to know for cutting them is the way they stretch, as you need the headband that is stretchy and that can be placed on the head. The best knit or jersey fabric option for these headbands are the 4 way stretch knit fabrics, that means that they are stretchy lengthwise and widthwise. If the knit you are using is 2 way stretch (means it stretches only across the grain - selvage to selvage, be sure that you are using that stretchy direction for the longer measurement.  If your fabric is 4-way stretch (fabric stretches both ways-with and across the grain), you don't need to worry about cutting direction.
I must say that with all my knit fabrics designed for AGF, it's really a pleasure to make these, as AGF knits are 4 way stretch, are OEKO certified and have a wonderful composition of 95% Cotton and 5% Spandex, meaning that they have great performance and are so soft and comfy. 

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These headbands are very popular, especially in the last couple of years, they are usually called twist headbands, crossover headbands, yoga headbands, turban headbands, boho headbands... to name a few common ones.


There are many free tutorials for this type of headband on different craft blogs and you tube channels, but I thought to gather here some of my conclusions, examples and tips.

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Needed supplies:

- rectangle of jersey knit fabric - approx. 20" x 8" (the best is 4 way stretch)
- scissors or rotary cutter
- sewing machine (serger is optional, but preferred)
- stretch (ballpoint) needle
- thread and pins

There are several things that can determine the length measurement for these headbands: head circumference or age (if making it for kids) and knit fabric type or performance (some are very stretchable and elastic, while some are less). Regarding the width measurement for these headbands - it's totally up to you and your style and preferences.

I have tested several types and measurements, making some for my family and friends-always using my AGF knit fabrics and here's what I came with:

Adults and teenagers : 20-21" for the longer rectangle size and 7-8" for the shorter size.
Teens : 19-20" for the longer rectangle size and 7-8" for the shorter size.
Gradeschoolers (5-12 yrs old) 18-19" for the longer rectangle size and 6-8" for the shorter size.
Preschools (3-5 yrs old) 17-18" for the longer rectangle size and 6-7" for the shorter size.
Toddlers (1-3 yrs old): 16-17" for the longer rectangle size and 6-7" for the shorter size.
Babies15-16" for the longer rectangle size and 5-6" for the shorter size.

So, let's get started!!!


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1. Now that you have determined the size and have cut your rectangle, you need to make the tube. 
Just fold the rectangle in half, longer sides together, right fabric side inside.

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2. Sew seam (seam allowance is up to you) with either a serger, or regular sewing machine, using some stretchy stitch options, like overage stitch or narrow zig zag (here's what works best on mine):



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3. Turn the tube inside out and lay it down.
Now you can choose if you prefer your seam to be on the side or centered inside the headband. I tried both versions and although the centered one may look nicer, I prefer the side one, just because that way it makes it easier to twist the headband and find the best look of the final knot, without trouble to turn the seam right side inside. It may sound weird, but you may try and will realize this little issue;) 


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4. Fold it in half, lengthwise and join the shorter sides together. 
Now you will create the knot by making a little sandwich with these shorter sides-by folding one side on another.

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Place the left edge of the upper layer on the center of the bottom layer and fold the remaining piece on the back. You can watch this little video that will help understanding better.

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This is what it will basically look like:












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5. Sew across this juncture, gathering all 4 layers together. You can do it with simple, straight stitch.
Just cut the fabric excess, to avoid the bulk and secure the threads on both ends.

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You are done- just open the headband and adjust the knot the way you like it.
You may eventually close and securely tuck in the sewn ends by hand sewing a few stitches on the top of the knot.

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Hope you enjoyed it!!!

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Happy sewing,
Katarina



Sunday, 3 November 2019

Earthen collection


3x6 cover

Happy November!!!
Not sure where and how the last few months flew away, so fast, but it's almost time to sew with my upcoming fabric collection - Earthen.
So, before posting a few makes and tutorials, I wanted to share a few pics and thoughts about this new one.
Nature has always been the best and the most beautiful source of inspiration for my work, and I felt like it deserves the collection that celebrates at least a tiniest bit of it's beauty.
Earth, our home planet, is a world unlike any other. The third planet from the sun, Earth is the only place in the known universe confirmed to host life. Earth is endowed with beauty beyond compare. Its exquisiteness can be seen through its seasons, natural wonders, majestic waterfalls, mysterious lost cities, amazing creatures, stunning textures and most precious signs of life. Inspired with life and nature, with what surrounds us and what inspires us, daily, this collection is an ode to life on our beautiful planet, painted in earthy tones, enriched with impressing textures.






This collection comes in variety of 16 SKUs printed on premium quilting cotton, 3 prints on knit fabrics and 2 on rayon.


These are only the strike offs, as I didn't get the actual yardage yet, but may give an initial idea of the collection.


It's always fun to pick some pure elements and other AGF blenders to match the prints, and I can't be happier with some new, perfect matching tones!!!

Can't wait to show you the quilt I am working on ;)
xx
Katarina



Monday, 29 July 2019

Maxi tiered rayon dress


Another free pattern day! Today, I am bringing this beautiful and easy sewing dress created with my Poppy Memories print in Rayon from my Floralish fabric collection.


This rayon dress pattern is great for hot summer days, perfect as a beach cover up and is very attractive, but also easy sewing pattern! It's actually one size fits all, as you can manage it's fit with ties and make it yours ;)

As with all Art gallery fabrics their gorgeous rayons are very soft and have an amazing drape, they are 54-56"wide, which will provide this amazing flowy effect!
So, let's get started!!!

Needed supplies:

3 - 3 1/2 yds of cotton voile or rayon fabric or other quilting cotton 
(I used a bit more than three yards of my poppy memories print in rayon)
*If you have 3 yds of fabric, you can make the tier to be shorter, like 8" instead of 10"
sewing machine(serger is optional, but preferred)
(if you don't have the serger just use a straight stitch and than do a zigzag stitch on the edges to keep the edges from fraying) 
scissors and/or rotary cutter
threadneedle (size 9 sharp needle is the best choice for rayon sewing)
iron and pins or clips
- bias binding tool (25 mm)- optional, but very helpful and highly recommended 


WOF-width of the fabric (this rayon is 54-56" wide)



*The armpit parts (both front and back pieces can be slightly adjusted to fit better your body- they could be cut from 6"-8" inches from the sides toward the center of the fabric, as shown above, according to how you are prefer the dress to fit your body).

1. Cut and prepare all the pieces, as shown above:

- 1x front piece-cut from the 44" x WOF
- 1x back piece-cut from the 36" x WOF
- 3x tier strips- 10" WOF each
- 2x ties strips- 1" x WOF each
(the ties for this project and this type of fabric can be cut normally-no need to cut them on bias)

front:

back:



2. Place the front and back pieces together, right sides inside, pin (or clip) and sew both sides of the dress closed. You can top stitch the side seams, if preferred, which will stabilize seams.
*I serged the armpit seams before sewing the side seams, because of fraying, but this is optional and can be done after. 


3. Gather the neckline: front and back side.

There are many techniques for gathering-ruffling fabric. You can use whatever method you prefer: with the ruffler foot, with the gathering foot, with the sewing machine using 2 basting stitches and pulling the fabric or with your serger. I usually gather cotton fabrics using my serger. When the fabrics are light weight as voile and rayon, you don't even need the ruffler foot - just put the differential and needle feed to be as high as possible (avoiding breaking the thread-if too high) . For the rayon, as it is light weight fabric, it's also very easy to use the sewing machine. Just adjust the tension of the top thread to almost maximum, and slightly loose the tension on the bobbin thread. Don't forget to adjust all the tensions to normal once you are done with ruffling!:)


4. Pin and sew the armpit seams closed, as preferred.


5. Make the ties with both 1" strips. 
To make them, you can either use the bias binding tool (like I did) and than press it lengthwise or without this useful tool, you can fold the strip in half lengthwise and iron it, then open and press both sides toward the center crease, press center crease close again.



5. Also, at this point, you can sew the tier strips together. Place 2 strips right sides together and sew shorter sides together just on one side, than add the 3rd strip sewing shorter sides together. 


6. Gather (ruffle) accordingly just one of the longer edges of the tier to obtain the same width of the main dress piece (approx. 108"). Finish the other edge with serger or zig zag seam and top stitch it.


7. Pin (or clip) and sew the tier to the bottom edge of the dress. Top stitch the bottom seam.


8. You have 2 ties: one is for the front and one for the back of the dress.
To finish the necklines (both-front and back) with the ties-first pin (or clip) the center of the tie to the center of the neckline.

To be sure that everything that is gathered, and a bit bulky will be safely placed inside the tie and centered nicely to the tie, you can eventually pin and stitch the gathered neckline to the
bottom part of the opened tie (that seam will be visible only on the wrong side of the dress-inside), just as picture beside is showing.
Gathering "density" will determine how the necklines will be: more open or more closed and it's suggested that you decide that by measuring yourself (from armpit to armpit + allowing how many inches more you would prefer it to be open)


10. Leave the back gathered neckline to be a bit longer than the one on the front, as it will allow more exposed back. Of course, if you don't like the back to be exposed, finish the back neckline like the front one-gather it with same "density".
My front neckline is 13" and 23" on the back.


11. Sew the ties in place, Starting from one end of the tie, going to it's opposite end, making sure that each tie is centered nicely on the dress-front and back.


12. Make the knots on the ties ends and trim them.


It's finished - just tie the dress the way you prefer and you are ready to rock!!!


xx
Katarina