Pumpkin quilt block - pillow front tutorial

 

My Eerie fabric collection is already shipping and available in shops, and before doing the regular post introduction about the collection, I have prepared this fun pumpkin block tutorial.

Decorative pillow covers are the easiest and fastest way to change your home décor without a major investment. Bold and funky patterns can sometimes feel overwhelming if used in larger home décor projects but can be fantastic for smaller-scale projects like pillows. They add a touch of color and pattern to your home space. Additionally, quilting adds texture and stability to the sewing/piecing, while trimming around the edges provides a modern look.

To get the printable template, download it HERE.

The featured fabrics: “Creepy Crawlers Tang”, “In The Dark”, “Creepy Crawlers Cement” and  “Seeds Olive” by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics.

 

Materials

For 1 pillow, finished size 14" x 13.5”

(I suggest adding sashing/borders around if bigger size is needed)

 

-Fabrics:

Fabric A:  Creepy Crawlers Tang, Fat quarter

Fabric B:  In The Dark, Fat eight

Fabric C:  Creepy Crawlers Cement,  Fat eight

Fabric D:  Seeds Olive, 2.5" square

Decorative trim (pipping or similar): 2 yds

-Medium weight, one-sided fusible interfacing or batting - 16 x 16” piece 

-14"x14” pillow insert

-Cutting mat and rotary cuter 

-Ruler  

-Scissors

-Iron

-Needle and thread

-Sewing machine

-Pins, clips

-Fabric pencil or marker

 

 

CUTTING:

¼ seam allowances are included

 

Two (2) 2.5“ x 14.5” rectangles from Fabric A

Three (3) 2.5” squares from Fabric A

Eight (8) 2.75” squares from Fabric A

One (1) 2.5“ x 4.5” rectangle from Fabric A

Two (2) 2“ x 7.5” rectangles from Fabric A

Two (2) 3.5“ x 4.5” rectangles from Fabric A

Four (4) 2.75” x 4.75” rectangles from Fabric B

One (1) 2.5“ x 4.5” rectangle from Fabric B

Two (2) 2” squares from Fabric B

Four (4) 2.5” squares from Fabric C

Two (2) 2.5“ x 6.5” rectangles from Fabric C

One (1) 2.5“square from Fabric D

Pillow front: pumpkin block

 

Guided by the cutting and fabric requirements, make 4 Flying geese units.

 • Prepare the 2 ¾” (2.75") squares in fabric A for the wings and 2 ¾” x 4 ¾” (2.75” x 4.75”) in fabric B for the geese body to make the FG units. Mark a diagonal line across the wrong side of all 2 ¾” squares. Place one square on the right corner of a corresponding rectangle, right sides together. Stitch across the corner on the line. Trim off corner, leaving a 1/4" seam. Press corner up.

Place another square on the left corner of the same rectangle, right sides together. Note that the second square will overlap the first one (that’s because you need to obtain the ¼” seam allowance at the top of 

the triangle’s point). Stitch across the corner on the marked line. Trim off corner, leaving a 1/4" seam. 

Press corner up. After all the FG units are sewn together,  trim them to obtain  2 ½ ”x 4 ½ “ units.

Flippy corners on rectangles (row 2, 4 and 6):

• With wrong side up, mark all 2”corner squares in fabric B and 2.5”corner squares in fabric C in half 

diagonally to determine the central - sew line. 

• Paying close attention to the orientation of each corner square: place and align them on the 

corresponding 2” x 7.5“ (row 4) and 2.5” x 14.5“ rectangles (for row 2 and 6) in fabric A and sew along the central diagonal line. 

• Trim off corners, leaving a 1/4” seam allowance, press seams as desired, flipping the corner. 

More about flying geese construction and floppy corners, you can learn HERE.

Adding the trim

 

With right side of the pillow front up, start pinning the trim all way around, starting from one corner and rounding it slightly on all corners. Sew the trimming in place, with the smallest seam allowance possible, finishing where you started, overlapping the trim’s edges.

 

Note: there are different weights, qualities and sizes of the trims, and depending on that, you may be able or not to slightly round the corners for the nice and professional finish. Thinner and softer trimmings are more suitable for shaping, while with thicker trimmings, you may be forced to cut the trimming separately for each of the pillow’s edges and overlap the edges on all corners. 

 

Pillow back

The easiest way to make the pillow back is with simple envelope back. 

Take the rectangles cut for the pillow back (2 Fat quarters), fold and press them on the longer side (22”) in half, wrong sides inside, so that you obtain two 18 x 11” pieces. 

 

Pillow assemble

 

Overlap the back pieces, squaring them and place the pillow front with right side inside-facing the overlapped backs. Pin all layers together and cut the backs leftover edges to the size of the pillow front- 14.5" x 14”. Sew around all edges with ¼ seam allowance, rounding the corners slightly, to prevent protruding. Turn the pillow case right side out and place the pillow insert inside.

Abstrart fabric collection and addition of Seedling new colors

Hi friends! Happy spring!

I received my advanced yardage of the Abstrart and Seedling fabric collections in February, as a perfect Valentine's gift, which kept me quite busy. 

Unlike previous collections, "Abstrart" brings a fresh perspective to fabric design with its dynamic and expressive prints that are celebrating the beauty of imperfection and the fluidity of modern design. Its clean lines, minimalistic geometric shapes, striking contrasts and abstract prints offer unparalleled flexibility in cutting and usage, allowing for boundless creativity without the fear of making a wrong cut. This collection incorporates small ditsy scratches, lines, fragments, stylized motifs that are reflecting a modern aesthetic that is both timeless and on-trend. The intertwining of organic fragments suggests a connection to nature, while the intuitive motifs hint at the creative spontaneity behind the collection. 

The color palette is highly restricted and quite neutral, very graphic, while minimalist designs emphasize simplicity and clarity. One colorway is monochromatic, featuring whitish to blackish greys and the other showcases muted, toned-down, mostly warm earthy tones, creating a subtle and understated harmony.

 

Furthermore, Seedling collection embodies the spirit of mixing and matching. It opens the door to a world of endless possibilities, especially when you are looking for a print that reads as a solid, but features a very subtle seed or dot-like design with a texture that mimics woven fabrics.

With my Seedling prints in mind, I created a quilt pattern series called The Chromaflick quilt patterns. They are designed as simple and beginner-friendly, utilizing only basic squares along with a straightforward 3-patch blocks. There are three different quilt  layouts: Chromaflick Dot, Chromaflick Cathedral and Chromaflick Chevron, allowing experimenting with color and color placement, using contrast and harmony as two powerful principles of visual communication. 

I can't wait to share more about these new quilt patterns in my next post;)

Katarina

xx

Twisted Knot Fabric Headband tutorial

In the realm of fashion, accessories are the unsung heroes that elevate an outfit from ordinary to extraordinary. Among these, headbands stand out as versatile pieces that not only add a touch of style but also serve a practical purpose. 
If you're eager to infuse your wardrobe with a dash of creativity and flair, crafting your own knot fabric headbands is a delightful endeavour that promises both style and comfort.
knot fabric headbands offer endless possibilities for expression.

Instructions:

Knot fabric headbands are not only chic and fashionable but also incredibly easy to make. With just a few materials and a bit of creativity, you can customize these headbands to suit your unique style and personality. Whether you're aiming for a bohemian vibe, a retro-inspired look, or a modern twist,

Materials Needed:

1. Fabric rectangle 8" x 20" (20 cm x 50 cm)

2. Fabric rectangle 8" x 26" (20 cm x 66 cm)

3. Fabric rectangle 3" x 8" (8 cm x 20 cm) - for elastic casing

4. Elastic band 4" long x 1" wide (10 cm x 2,5 cm)

Begin by measuring and cutting your fabric. Keep in mind that the width will determine the thickness of the headband, while the length will determine how snugly it fits around your head. If you don't want to make the double knot, but prefer to just scrape one strip through another (making just one hoop), then cut both large rectangles to the same size: 8" x 20".

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2. Sew the Seam: fold all three rectangles lengthwise and stitch along the open longer edge of the fabric to create a seam, leaving both shorter ends open. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the seam.

   
   

   

3. Turn Inside Out: Carefully turn the fabric inside out so that the right side is now facing outward. Use a blunt object, such as a chopstick or pencil, to gently push out the corners and create clean edges.
   
   Fold and Iron: placing the seam in the centre, press the rectangles-tubes. This will ensure a polished finish.
   
   
   
   
   

4. Insert Elastic: Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through one end of the smallest rectangle (elastic casing), securing it with a pin or clip. Topstitch at one shorter end and then on the other end to secure it inside and prevent it from slipping through.

   
   

   Stitch elastic casing to headband: Fold the first fabric tube in half, so that the shorter ends overlap and the seam stays inside. Place one shorter end of the elastic casing on the centre, overlap both short ends over the elastic, clip and sew. Turn the bigger rectangle over it, so that the raw edge stays secured underneath. Now the other longer tube needs to go in between the first loop, so just make a hoop and then make a regular knot (tying the knot and therefore "loosing some length" is the reason why this rectangle is 6" longer than the first one). Now repeat the same process for the other side: place the shorter raw ends together, then place the other raw end of the elastic casing on the top, overlap the edges, clip and topstitch. Just push the raw edges underneath the sewn tubes and you are done!

5. 
   

   Your knot fabric headband is now ready to wear and enjoy!
   

You can watch the video for better comprehension that is available on my Instagram profile. I will make sure to film another one soon that will be uploaded to my YouTube channel with horizontal setting.

Happy sewing, Katarina

Florence fabric collection

I was certain that I had already created a post about the release of my latest Florence fabric collection, but I suppose I was mistaken and confused it with my newsletter.

Great thing is that the Look Book is also out and it's full of inspirational projects and ideas!

Trying to capture the beauty of the Italian city of Florence and its masterpieces from the high Renaissance period, Florence is another sightseeing venture through this collection’s painted florals and geometrical details. This collection celebrates some of the most significant paintings, sculptures, and architectural details from the city’s major museums and buildings, such as Duomo, Uffizi, and Palazzo Medici-Riccardi. The color palette in earthy terra-cotta tones with contrasting sky blues is drawn from Botticelli’s paintings—an ode to beauty, divine love, and the richness of the world.

Must say that among my favorites is a version of my Duomo quilt pattern created by my friend Sue. 

I hope that I will have time to create a wearable version of it. 

I also created a set of bags for the look book and the Birdie bag is my favourite bag, created 12 yrs ago for the first time and can be found as a free downloadable pattern with tutorial in this post.

This last one is my favourite Marta shopping bag, as it's reversible and so huge, can carry a lot.

I can not wait to see more projects created with Florence, I hope this may inspire you as well!

xx

Katarina 

Half Log Cabin Quilt Block Piecing tutorial with tips and tricks

Quilting is an art form that transcends time, continually inspiring in creativity and expression. Among the myriad of quilt block designs, the half log cabin block stands out as a classic yet versatile pattern that invites quilters to explore endless possibilities. 

What is the Half Log Cabin Block?
The half log cabin block is a variation of the traditional log cabin block, characterized by its unique construction and striking visual appeal. Unlike its full log cabin counterpart, which features strips of fabric sewn around a central square, the half log cabin block employs strips on only two adjacent sides, creating a captivating asymmetry.

The Beauty of Half Log Cabin Block Piecing
The magic of the half log cabin block lies in its simplicity and adaptability. By playing with fabric placement, color gradients, and strip widths, quilters can achieve a myriad of effects, from subtle gradations to bold contrasts.
1. Color Placement: Experiment with light and dark fabrics to create depth and dimension within the block. Consider using a cohesive color scheme or mixing contrasting hues for a dynamic visual impact.
2. Strip Width Variation: Varying the width of the strips adds visual interest and texture to the block. Combine narrow and wide strips to create intricate patterns and captivating movement.
3. Gradated Effects: Explore the possibilities of creating gradated effects within the block by arranging strips in a strategic sequence. Transition seamlessly from light to dark or vice versa to achieve a harmonious gradient.

Tips for Half Log Cabin Block Piecing

While the half log cabin block offers boundless creative opportunities, mastering the piecing process is key to achieving flawless results. Here are some tips to guide you along the way:

1. Precision Cutting: 

Accurate cutting is essential for achieving clean, straight edges in your blocks. Use a rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat to ensure precise measurements and clean angles. If possible, cut fabric strips lengthwise instead of crosswise.

Minimizing Stretch:

The lengthwise grain of the fabric has minimal stretch compared to the crosswise grain or bias. Cutting strips for your log cabin blocks along the lengthwise grain helps maintain the stability and integrity of the fabric, reducing the risk of distortion during piecing and pressing.

1. Preserving Block Shape:
   Fabrics cut along the lengthwise grain retain their shape better, resulting in more precise and uniform log cabin blocks. This stability ensures that the blocks maintain their intended size and shape throughout the quilting process, contributing to the overall accuracy and appearance of the finished quilt top.

2. Consistent Seam Allowances: 

Maintain a consistent seam allowance throughout the piecing process to ensure uniformity and prevent distortion. Consider using a quarter-inch foot or marking your sewing machine to guide your stitches and/or use magnetic seam guide. 

I strongly suggest using SCANT seam allowance. Fabric thickness, thread thickness, and pressing techniques can all contribute to slight variations in seam allowance. A scant allowance compensates for these factors, resulting in more accurately sized quilt blocks.

How to Achieve a Scant Seam Allowance:

1. Adjusting Sewing Machine Settings:

   Use the markings on your sewing machine's needle plate as a guide for seam allowance. Align the edge of the fabric with a line slightly less than the desired seam allowance.

   Some quilters find it helpful to move the needle position slightly to the right, ensuring a scant allowance without relying solely on the machine's markings.

2. Test and Adjust:

   Practice on scrap fabric to determine the ideal seam allowance for your machine and fabric combination. 

   Measure the resulting seam allowance with a ruler or seam gauge to ensure it matches the desired measurement.

3. Consistency is Key:

   Maintain a consistent scant seam allowance throughout your project to ensure uniformity in block size and alignment. Pay attention to seam allowances at the beginning and end of stitching lines, as these areas are prone to variation and can affect block accuracy.

4. • 
     
   • 

3. Pressing Technique: 

Press your seams carefully and consistently (without stretching or distorting the fabric) after each step to set them in place and reduce bulk. Consider pressing seams open for a flatter finish, particularly when working with multiple layers of fabric. Use a hot iron, without steam and firm pressure to ensure seams lie flat and open, minimizing bulk and creating crisp, precise blocks.

4. Starching the fabrics:

Using starch in log cabin piecing can be a helpful technique for achieving precise and crisp results. Here are some tips for using starch effectively:

Choosing the Right Starch:

Opt for a starch product specifically designed for fabric use, as these formulations are gentler on fabrics and provide better results.

Consider using a starch alternative like sizing or starch alternative spray for a lighter finish.

Application:

Spray a light, even layer of starch onto the fabric, holding the starch bottle approximately 6-8 inches away from the fabric surface.

Avoid saturating the fabric with starch, as excess starch can lead to stiffness and difficulty in handling.

Drying:

Allow the sprayed fabric to air dry or use a pressing cloth and iron to dry the starch. Use a low to medium heat setting to prevent scorching or damaging the fabric fibers.

Pressing:

Once the fabric is dry, press it with a hot iron to activate the starch and set the fabric. Use firm, even pressure to ensure the starch penetrates the fibers evenly.

Press from the wrong side of the fabric to prevent leaving starch residue on the iron's soleplate.

Handling and Piecing:

Starched fabric tends to be stiffer and more stable, making it easier to handle during cutting and piecing.

Take care not to stretch or distort the starched fabric while handling, as this can affect the accuracy of your piecing.

Accuracy and Precision:

Starched fabric provides crisper, more defined edges, which can help maintain the integrity of your piecing lines and ensure precise seam allowances.

Use starch particularly for bias edges and intricate piecing patterns to minimize distortion and maintain shape.

By following these tips, you can harness the benefits of starch to enhance the accuracy and quality of your log cabin piecing, resulting in beautifully crafted quilt blocks and projects.

1. • 
     

Embarking on HALF LOG cabin block piecing

Now that you're equipped with the fundamentals of half log cabin block piecing, it's time to embark on your quilting adventure. 

All the fabric strips were cut in 1.5" x WOF strips (it's even better if you can cut them in LOF (length of the fabric direction as explained before) and then subcut and pieced in following order:

1. 1.5" square in fabric A
2. 1.5" square in fabric B
3. 1.5" x 2.5" rectangle in fabric B 
4. 1.5" x 2.5" rectangle in fabric A
5. 1.5" x 3.5" rectangle in fabric A
6. 1.5" x 3.5" rectangle in fabric C
7. 1.5" x 4.5" rectangle in fabric C 
8. 1.5" x 4.5" rectangle in fabric A
9. 1.5" x 5.5" rectangle in fabric A
10. 1.5" x 5.5" rectangle in fabric D
11. 1.5" x 6.5" rectangle in fabric D 
12. 1.5" x 6.5" rectangle in fabric A
13. 1.5" x 7.5" rectangle in fabric A
14. 1.5" x 7.5" rectangle in fabric E
15. 1.5" x 8.5" rectangle in fabric E

Whether you're a seasoned quilter or a novice enthusiast, the half log cabin block offers a canvas for boundless creativity and exploration.
Here's the simple block that I am using for my upcoming, improved Interlude quilt pattern, called Interloud pattern.

This block is 8.5" unfinished. 

By making and piecing 4 of these together, you can obtain a great pillow or bag front.

This quilt block can be great for using scraps. Just determine the fabric groups by value, for example all the fabrics from the A group (background) will be with light values (whitish), while the B-C-D-E fabrics will be either from the same colour group (for example shades of blue) or all on the darker side, so that they can provide great contrast with the fabrics from the group A(background). Additionally, you can play with gradient, like shown on the piecing diagram.

Have fun!
Katarina