Pumpkin quilt block - pillow front tutorial

 

My Eerie fabric collection is already shipping and available in shops, and before doing the regular post introduction about the collection, I have prepared this fun pumpkin block tutorial.

Decorative pillow covers are the easiest and fastest way to change your home décor without a major investment. Bold and funky patterns can sometimes feel overwhelming if used in larger home décor projects but can be fantastic for smaller-scale projects like pillows. They add a touch of color and pattern to your home space. Additionally, quilting adds texture and stability to the sewing/piecing, while trimming around the edges provides a modern look.

To get the printable template, download it HERE.

The featured fabrics: “Creepy Crawlers Tang”, “In The Dark”, “Creepy Crawlers Cement” and  “Seeds Olive” by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics.

 

Materials

For 1 pillow, finished size 14" x 13.5”

(I suggest adding sashing/borders around if bigger size is needed)

 

-Fabrics:

Fabric A:  Creepy Crawlers Tang, Fat quarter

Fabric B:  In The Dark, Fat eight

Fabric C:  Creepy Crawlers Cement,  Fat eight

Fabric D:  Seeds Olive, 2.5" square

Decorative trim (pipping or similar): 2 yds

-Medium weight, one-sided fusible interfacing or batting - 16 x 16” piece 

-14"x14” pillow insert

-Cutting mat and rotary cuter 

-Ruler  

-Scissors

-Iron

-Needle and thread

-Sewing machine

-Pins, clips

-Fabric pencil or marker

 

 

CUTTING:

¼ seam allowances are included

 

Two (2) 2.5“ x 14.5” rectangles from Fabric A

Three (3) 2.5” squares from Fabric A

Eight (8) 2.75” squares from Fabric A

One (1) 2.5“ x 4.5” rectangle from Fabric A

Two (2) 2“ x 7.5” rectangles from Fabric A

Two (2) 3.5“ x 4.5” rectangles from Fabric A

Four (4) 2.75” x 4.75” rectangles from Fabric B

One (1) 2.5“ x 4.5” rectangle from Fabric B

Two (2) 2” squares from Fabric B

Four (4) 2.5” squares from Fabric C

Two (2) 2.5“ x 6.5” rectangles from Fabric C

One (1) 2.5“square from Fabric D

Pillow front: pumpkin block

 

Guided by the cutting and fabric requirements, make 4 Flying geese units.

 • Prepare the 2 ¾” (2.75") squares in fabric A for the wings and 2 ¾” x 4 ¾” (2.75” x 4.75”) in fabric B for the geese body to make the FG units. Mark a diagonal line across the wrong side of all 2 ¾” squares. Place one square on the right corner of a corresponding rectangle, right sides together. Stitch across the corner on the line. Trim off corner, leaving a 1/4" seam. Press corner up.

Place another square on the left corner of the same rectangle, right sides together. Note that the second square will overlap the first one (that’s because you need to obtain the ¼” seam allowance at the top of 

the triangle’s point). Stitch across the corner on the marked line. Trim off corner, leaving a 1/4" seam. 

Press corner up. After all the FG units are sewn together,  trim them to obtain  2 ½ ”x 4 ½ “ units.

Flippy corners on rectangles (row 2, 4 and 6):

• With wrong side up, mark all 2”corner squares in fabric B and 2.5”corner squares in fabric C in half 

diagonally to determine the central - sew line. 

• Paying close attention to the orientation of each corner square: place and align them on the 

corresponding 2” x 7.5“ (row 4) and 2.5” x 14.5“ rectangles (for row 2 and 6) in fabric A and sew along the central diagonal line. 

• Trim off corners, leaving a 1/4” seam allowance, press seams as desired, flipping the corner. 

More about flying geese construction and floppy corners, you can learn HERE.

Adding the trim

 

With right side of the pillow front up, start pinning the trim all way around, starting from one corner and rounding it slightly on all corners. Sew the trimming in place, with the smallest seam allowance possible, finishing where you started, overlapping the trim’s edges.

 

Note: there are different weights, qualities and sizes of the trims, and depending on that, you may be able or not to slightly round the corners for the nice and professional finish. Thinner and softer trimmings are more suitable for shaping, while with thicker trimmings, you may be forced to cut the trimming separately for each of the pillow’s edges and overlap the edges on all corners. 

 

Pillow back

The easiest way to make the pillow back is with simple envelope back. 

Take the rectangles cut for the pillow back (2 Fat quarters), fold and press them on the longer side (22”) in half, wrong sides inside, so that you obtain two 18 x 11” pieces. 

 

Pillow assemble

 

Overlap the back pieces, squaring them and place the pillow front with right side inside-facing the overlapped backs. Pin all layers together and cut the backs leftover edges to the size of the pillow front- 14.5" x 14”. Sew around all edges with ¼ seam allowance, rounding the corners slightly, to prevent protruding. Turn the pillow case right side out and place the pillow insert inside.

Twisted Knot Fabric Headband tutorial

In the realm of fashion, accessories are the unsung heroes that elevate an outfit from ordinary to extraordinary. Among these, headbands stand out as versatile pieces that not only add a touch of style but also serve a practical purpose. 
If you're eager to infuse your wardrobe with a dash of creativity and flair, crafting your own knot fabric headbands is a delightful endeavour that promises both style and comfort.
knot fabric headbands offer endless possibilities for expression.

Instructions:

Knot fabric headbands are not only chic and fashionable but also incredibly easy to make. With just a few materials and a bit of creativity, you can customize these headbands to suit your unique style and personality. Whether you're aiming for a bohemian vibe, a retro-inspired look, or a modern twist,

Materials Needed:

1. Fabric rectangle 8" x 20" (20 cm x 50 cm)

2. Fabric rectangle 8" x 26" (20 cm x 66 cm)

3. Fabric rectangle 3" x 8" (8 cm x 20 cm) - for elastic casing

4. Elastic band 4" long x 1" wide (10 cm x 2,5 cm)

Begin by measuring and cutting your fabric. Keep in mind that the width will determine the thickness of the headband, while the length will determine how snugly it fits around your head. If you don't want to make the double knot, but prefer to just scrape one strip through another (making just one hoop), then cut both large rectangles to the same size: 8" x 20".

1. 

   
   

2. Sew the Seam: fold all three rectangles lengthwise and stitch along the open longer edge of the fabric to create a seam, leaving both shorter ends open. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the seam.

   
   

   

3. Turn Inside Out: Carefully turn the fabric inside out so that the right side is now facing outward. Use a blunt object, such as a chopstick or pencil, to gently push out the corners and create clean edges.
   
   Fold and Iron: placing the seam in the centre, press the rectangles-tubes. This will ensure a polished finish.
   
   
   
   
   

4. Insert Elastic: Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through one end of the smallest rectangle (elastic casing), securing it with a pin or clip. Topstitch at one shorter end and then on the other end to secure it inside and prevent it from slipping through.

   
   

   Stitch elastic casing to headband: Fold the first fabric tube in half, so that the shorter ends overlap and the seam stays inside. Place one shorter end of the elastic casing on the centre, overlap both short ends over the elastic, clip and sew. Turn the bigger rectangle over it, so that the raw edge stays secured underneath. Now the other longer tube needs to go in between the first loop, so just make a hoop and then make a regular knot (tying the knot and therefore "loosing some length" is the reason why this rectangle is 6" longer than the first one). Now repeat the same process for the other side: place the shorter raw ends together, then place the other raw end of the elastic casing on the top, overlap the edges, clip and topstitch. Just push the raw edges underneath the sewn tubes and you are done!

5. 
   

   Your knot fabric headband is now ready to wear and enjoy!
   

You can watch the video for better comprehension that is available on my Instagram profile. I will make sure to film another one soon that will be uploaded to my YouTube channel with horizontal setting.

Happy sewing, Katarina

Dunes quilt block - pillow tutorial

Last year, I was asked to create something simple and fun for the Simple sewing magazine, featuring my color master designer box collection. So I designed this easy block constructed with 3" HSTs and turned it into a pillow, actually I made two;)

I was brainstorming ideas for the pillows for my just released Picturesque collection and as HTS are always a good idea for the pillow covers, I used the same block! I also got some HST left overs, so I created another composition, but I will show them both in my next blog post, just wanted to have the original version saved here, before ;)

So here it goes:

Decorative pillow covers are the easiest and fastest way to change the home décor, without major investment. Bold and funky patterns can sometimes be too much or too busy if used in bigger home décor projects, but can be awesome if used for smaller scales projects, like pillows, to embellish and add a touch of color and pattern in your home space. Additionally, quilting adds a bit of texture and stabilize the sewing/piecing, while trimming around the edges, adds a modern look.

To get the printable template, download it HERE

 

The featured fabrics: “Paprounes Crimson”, “Uninhibited Fashion”, “Steps Above Prism”, “Greeka Fouxia” and  “Morse Dot Sun” from the “Designer’s palette, edition #1” by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics.

 

Materials

For 1 pillow, finished size 15 x 15”

 

-Fabrics:

Fabric A:  Paprounes Crimson, Fat eight

Fabric B:  Uninhibited Fashion, Fat quarter

Fabric C:  Steps Above Prism, 5/8 yard

Fabric D:  Greeka Fouxia, Fat eight

Fabric E:  Morse Dot Sun, Fat eight

Decorative trim (pom-pom or similar): 2 yds

-Medium weight, one-sided fusible interfacing or batting - 16 x 16” piece 

-Pompom or other decoratiove trim, 65” long (2 yds)

-16x16” or 15x15” pillow insert

-Cutting mat and rotary cuter* optional

-Ruler  

-Scissors

-Iron

-Needle and thread

-Sewing machine

-Pins

-Fabric pencil or marker

 

 

CUTTING:

¼ seam allowances are included

 

Two (2) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric A

Ten (10) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric B

Two (2) 17“ x 22” rectangles from Fabric B (for pillow back)

Ten (10) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric C

Eight (8) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric D

Six (6) 4“ x 4” squares from Fabric E

 

 

Pillow front

 

To make the pillow front, there are total of 36 HSTs (half-square triangles).

Guided by the cutting and fabric requirements, make the following HSTs:

 

A+B    make 4

B+C    make 16

E+D    make 12

D+C    make 4

 

HSTs construction:

 

Place and align two 4” x 4” squares in corresponding prints, right sides together and with a marker or pencil draw a diagonal line across the wrong side of the fabric. Sew a 1/4" seam on both sides of the drawn line. Cut the squares on the drawn line. In this way, you will obtain two HST’s. Press seams either open or to one side, upon your preferences. Pressing the seams open eliminates bulk and makes it easier to match the seams. Trim HSTs to 3 x 3”.

 

Following the quilt block diagram, compose the quilt block: start by joining the HST units (as shown in diagram) in order to obtain the horizontal rows. Sew all right sides together with ¼ seam allowance. Press the seams. Join the composed horizontal rows to complete the block. Press the seams. Fuse the interfacing on the wrong side of the block /pillow front or pin the piece of batting and quilt it. If needed, trim and square the pillow front. 

 

Adding the trim

 

With right side of the pillow front up, start pinning the trim all way around, starting from one corner and rounding it slightly on all corners. Sew the trimming in place, with the smallest seam allowance possible, finishing where you started, overlapping the trim’s edges.

 

Note: there are different weights, qualities and sizes of the trims, and depending on that, you may be able or not to slightly round the corners for the nice and professional finish. Thinner and softer trimmings are more suitable for shaping, while with thicker trimmings, you may be forced to cut the trimming separately for each of the pillow’s edges and overlap the edges on all corners. 

 

Pillow back

 

The easiest way to make the pillow back is with simple envelope back. 

Take the rectangles cut for the pillow back, fold and press them on the longer side (22”) in half, wrong sides inside, so that you obtain two 17 x 11” pieces. 

 

Pillow assemble

 

 

Overlap the back pieces, squaring them and place the pillow front with right side inside-facing the overlapped backs. Pin all layers together and cut the backs leftover edges to the size of the pillow front- 15.5 x 15.5”. Sew around all edges with ¼ seam allowance, rounding the corners slightly, to prevent protruding. Turn the pillow case right side out and place the pillow insert inside.

xx

Katarina

Fabric face mask tutorial

Hi!
It's been a while...and maybe I wouldn't even pop up, if it wasn't for this new Pandemic situation that, unfortunately we are all living at the moment.

About a month ago, I started making fabric masks, as a necessity, because we couldn't buy them in the pharmacies - they were sold out and of course, the medical facilities needed them more then ever.
I saw on the internet, especially Instagram, that in many countries that were firstly "attacked" with this nasty virus, people started making different kinds of fabric masks, so I started testing and trying different kinds of patterns.

The one that I liked the most, was kindly sent to me from a fabric friend on Instagram - Nida and here, I am bringing the pattern that I slightly changed (mainly regarding the filter placement opening).
I really like the fact that it sits on the face nicely, and the nose part is nicely covered, without use of additional wire, but it can eventually also be added.

There are also  many tutorials providing different kinds of elastic or tie options, and I suppose that it can depend on the personal preferences, availability or maybe even some strict rules, that certain facilities have set as parameter or best solution.

Art Gallery fabrics collected and shared many useful and helpful info regarding some fabric facts and also different pattern options on their newly created webpage, so I suggest that you look at it.

Here's the printable fitted face mask PDF pattern. You can find the IGTv video HERE

In case that you don't have the printer at home, I am attaching here also the original pattern I got from Nida, that is very easy to be drafted, following the measurements she provided.

My youngest daughter Bianka (modelling her homemade masks), helped me a lot in making and sewing masks and also created the video for how to make it (by herself!), and you may find it on my Instagram and as my first ever IGTV.

Happy sewing!
Katarina

Maxi tiered rayon dress

Another free pattern day! Today, I am bringing this beautiful and easy sewing dress created with my Poppy Memories print in Rayon from my Floralish fabric collection.

This rayon dress pattern is great for hot summer days, perfect as a beach cover up and is very attractive, but also easy sewing pattern! It's actually one size fits all, as you can manage it's fit with ties and make it yours ;)

As with all Art gallery fabrics their gorgeous rayons are very soft and have an amazing drape, they are 54-56"wide, which will provide this amazing flowy effect!

So, let's get started!!!

Needed supplies:

- 3 - 3 1/2 yds of cotton voile or rayon fabric or other quilting cotton 
(I used a bit more than three yards of my poppy memories print in rayon)
*If you have 3 yds of fabric, you can make the tier to be shorter, like 8" instead of 10"
- sewing machine(serger is optional, but preferred)
(if you don't have the serger just use a straight stitch and than do a zigzag stitch on the edges to keep the edges from fraying) 
- scissors and/or rotary cutter
- thread, needle (size 9 sharp needle is the best choice for rayon sewing)
- iron and pins or clips
- bias binding tool (25 mm)- optional, but very helpful and highly recommended 

WOF-width of the fabric (this rayon is 54-56" wide)

*The armpit parts (both front and back pieces can be slightly adjusted to fit better your body- they could be cut from 6"-8" inches from the sides toward the center of the fabric, as shown above, according to how you are prefer the dress to fit your body).

1. Cut and prepare all the pieces, as shown above:

- 1x front piece-cut from the 44" x WOF

- 1x back piece-cut from the 36" x WOF

- 3x tier strips- 10" WOF each

- 2x ties strips- 1" x WOF each

(the ties for this project and this type of fabric can be cut normally-no need to cut them on bias)

front:

back:

2. Place the front and back pieces together, right sides inside, pin (or clip) and sew both sides of the dress closed. You can top stitch the side seams, if preferred, which will stabilize seams.

*I serged the armpit seams before sewing the side seams, because of fraying, but this is optional and can be done after. 

3. Gather the neckline: front and back side.

There are many techniques for gathering-ruffling fabric. You can use whatever method you prefer: with the ruffler foot, with the gathering foot, with the sewing machine using 2 basting stitches and pulling the fabric or with your serger. I usually gather cotton fabrics using my serger. When the fabrics are light weight as voile and rayon, you don't even need the ruffler foot - just put the differential and needle feed to be as high as possible (avoiding breaking the thread-if too high) . For the rayon, as it is light weight fabric, it's also very easy to use the sewing machine. Just adjust the tension of the top thread to almost maximum, and slightly loose the tension on the bobbin thread. Don't forget to adjust all the tensions to normal once you are done with ruffling!:)

4. Pin and sew the armpit seams closed, as preferred.

5. Make the ties with both 1" strips. 

To make them, you can either use the bias binding tool (like I did) and than press it lengthwise or without this useful tool, you can fold the strip in half lengthwise and iron it, then open and press both sides toward the center crease, press center crease close again.

5. Also, at this point, you can sew the tier strips together. Place 2 strips right sides together and sew shorter sides together just on one side, than add the 3rd strip sewing shorter sides together. 

6. Gather (ruffle) accordingly just one of the longer edges of the tier to obtain the same width of the main dress piece (approx. 108"). Finish the other edge with serger or zig zag seam and top stitch it.

7. Pin (or clip) and sew the tier to the bottom edge of the dress. Top stitch the bottom seam.

8. You have 2 ties: one is for the front and one for the back of the dress.
To finish the necklines (both-front and back) with the ties-first pin (or clip) the center of the tie to the center of the neckline.

To be sure that everything that is gathered, and a bit bulky will be safely placed inside the tie and centered nicely to the tie, you can eventually pin and stitch the gathered neckline to the
bottom part of the opened tie (that seam will be visible only on the wrong side of the dress-inside), just as picture beside is showing.
Gathering "density" will determine how the necklines will be: more open or more closed and it's suggested that you decide that by measuring yourself (from armpit to armpit + allowing how many inches more you would prefer it to be open)

10. Leave the back gathered neckline to be a bit longer than the one on the front, as it will allow more exposed back. Of course, if you don't like the back to be exposed, finish the back neckline like the front one-gather it with same "density".
My front neckline is 13" and 23" on the back.

11. Sew the ties in place, Starting from one end of the tie, going to it's opposite end, making sure that each tie is centered nicely on the dress-front and back.

12. Make the knots on the ties ends and trim them.

It's finished - just tie the dress the way you prefer and you are ready to rock!!!

xx

Katarina