Wooden kiss lock frame pouch bag

When I spotted this beautiful 6" wooden kiss lock frame at a local craft shop, I couldn't resist picking it up. It came with a set of small screws—perfect for securely fastening the layers of fabric sandwiched together.

There’s something so satisfying about that click of a wooden kiss lock frame closing around your handmade creation. These retro-inspired pouches are perfect for carrying small essentials—or gifting with flair.

Feel free to download the paper template I used for this bag.

🧵 Materials You’ll Need:

• Outer fabric: 2 pieces (10" x 14") – quilting cotton or linen works beautifully

• Lining fabric: 2 pieces (10" x 14")

• Fusible fleece, foam or batting: 2 pieces (approx. 9.5" x 13.5")

• 6" wooden kiss lock frame 

• Coordinating thread

• Fabric glue (optional, but helpful for positioning)

• Your usual sewing tools: scissors/rotary cutter, pins or clips, iron, sewing machine

✂️ TIP: If you're using directional fabric, make sure your pattern faces up from the bottom of the pouch!

Step 1: Cut your outer and lining fabrics using this template. 

As my main fabric wasn't directional, I cut it as a one piece, rather than 2, shortening the central part (bottom seam allowance line).

Step 2: Fuse the Fleece

Iron the fusible fleece (or foam) to the wrong side of your outer fabric pieces or simply quilt the batting to the main fabric for more textured look, like I did.

This gives your pouch structure and a soft feel.

Step 3: Sew the Outer & Lining Pieces

Outer Fabric: Place right sides together and sew around the sides and bottom using a 1/2 " seam allowance.

Lining Fabric: Repeat the same process but leave a 2–3" turning gap at the bottom.

Step 4: Join Outer and Lining

1. Turn the outer pouch right side out. Keep the lining inside out.

2. Nest the outer pouch inside the lining—right sides should be facing.

3. Align and clip top edges and sew around the entire top curve.

4. Pull the outer pouch through the gap you left in the lining.

5. Stitch the gap closed with a small ladder stitch or machine-stitch close to the edge.

6. Push the lining into the pouch and give everything a good press.

Step 5:  Attach the Wooden Frame

1. Slide the top edge of your pouch into the frame evenly.

2. You can use a small amount of fabric glue to hold it in place.

3. Use the screws to fix everything together for extra security.

4. Repeat on the other side.

I also stitched up a matching fabric and my Adventale Renaissance ribbon handle, embellished with piping for an extra touch of flair.

I hope that this was helpful! I certainly loved creating mine!!!

xx,

Katarina

Quilted boxed pouches tutorial - adjusted for sewing with directional prints

If you’ve ever made a zippered boxed pouch and ended up with your cute directional fabric turned sideways (or upside down… oops), this one’s for you!

And here's my newest pouch created with the prints from my Soar collection. 

Actually, I used the left over fabrics and patchwork pieces from the Patchwork hoodie so this is a great way to use those leftover blocks and similar patchwork from previous projects.

So, basically this patchwork panel was created using a quilt-as-you-go method — one of my favorite ways to build texture and use even the tiniest leftover pieces.

I started with a base measuring 20" x 16", using a piece of fleece (you could also use batting or flannel or even recycle an old thin blanket for this — it adds beautiful loft and sustainability to the project). This base acts as both your stabilizer and your quilting layer, so there’s no separate quilting step at the end.

Then the building begins.

Instead of sewing patchwork blocks first and quilting later, each fabric piece is added directly onto the batting base. I usually begin in one corner or roughly in the center — placing the first scrap right side up and stitching it down with a simple straight stitch or gentle quilting lines.

From there, I add the next piece right sides together, just like traditional patchwork. After stitching the seam, I flip the new piece open and press it flat. Because it’s attached to the batting underneath, it’s already quilted in place.

Piece by piece, scrap by scrap, the panel grows.

There’s no strict rule about shapes — you can work with strips, squares, improvised angles, or even sections of old patchwork that you’re repurposing. It’s a beautiful way to give new life to unfinished blocks or worn quilts. Each seam secures the layers together, so the texture builds naturally as you go.

As the composition expands, I continue adding pieces outward until the entire 20" x 16" base is covered. 

What you’re left with is a fully quilted patchwork panel — textured, layered, and completely unique. No separate backing step. No large quilt sandwich to wrestle with. Just a steady, satisfying rhythm of stitch, flip, press, repeat.

It’s sustainable, forgiving, and perfect for transforming scraps — or even forgotten blankets — into something beautifully usable.

Here's a picture of a finished panel using the scraps from my Eerie fabric collection.

Sky is a limit....

Here's my go-to pouch tutorial with a smart little fix: free downloadable template that helps you easily work with directional prints—no more guessing or flipping pieces around. Whether you're making one for yourself, as a gift, or to use up those irresistible fabric scraps, this version keeps things tidy, professional-looking, and beginner-friendly.

You can watch my video on You tube with a process—from cutting the fabric to sewing the boxed corners—so you can make these pouches with confidence (and style). 

The only difference is in size (the non directional one-like this above ditsy floral burgundy one is a bit larger and the main fabric was all one piece and that I didn't cut the corners immediately.

Also, in THIS post you can find more info about embellishing the fabrics and pouch with ribbon details.

🧵 Materials You’ll Need - for the finished size 9" x 5" x 5"

• Outer fabric: 2 pieces (10" x 14") – quilting cotton or linen works beautifully

• Lining fabric: 2 pieces (10" x 14")

• Fabric for the tabs and handle:  (3.5" x 12.5") to be cut after sewing in 3 pieces

• Fusible fleece, foam or batting: 2 pieces (approx. 9.5" x 13.5")

• 15" Zipper and pulls (1 or 2 -it's up to you) 

• Coordinating thread

• Your usual sewing tools: scissors/rotary cutter, pins or clips, iron, sewing machine

✂️ TIP: If you're using directional fabric, make sure your pattern faces up from the bottom of the pouch!

As Adventale fabric collection has a lot of cute panels that can be very inspiring and unique for gift-giving projects and has that Alphabet panel  that can be such a beautiful way to turn initials into stitched art. 

*discard the numbers on this first paper template-that was a first test, so it's not perfect and was improved

I started with cutting the letters M and R in 7.5" squares. I added 7.5" x 3.5" rectangles in Twinkle Little Stars Sky fabric on both sides and sew them together. 

Then I added 1.5" x 14" rectangles in Jolly Ribbons Festive fabric at the top, where the zipper will be sewn to both rectangles and there should be added another 2" x 14" rectangles of another fabric for the bottom ( I added that small ditsy floral from my Plentiful collection).

Here are quilted and sewn together both sides. My lining is Twinkle Little Stars in Ruby.

I also did the other pouch but all in one fabric, using another fun letter print from the collection called Letters to Santa.

Instructions:

I like to use plastic zippers sold by the meter. They are affordable, available in many colors and they are easy to sew over, without the fear that the sewing needle might broke. While the easiest way to use them is to simply detach the sides and install the zipper pulls (sliders) only after sewing the zipper to both main fabric panel and lining, I filmed also the version with the zipper pulls on from the beginning, so I hope that this overlapping of two zipper methods will not be confusing. Prepare the Fabric:

Cut the outer layer fabric, batting and lining fabric according to the specified dimensions. Cut the rectangle that will be used for the handle and tabs. Ensure that all pieces are neatly cut to size. Quilt the main fabric to the batting as desired-this is to stabilize the fabric and give more structure to the bag. You can avoid this step by using some thicker fabric, like canvas or similar. Clip the fabrics and zipper tape to mark the centers for easier matching. Make the Handle and Tabs: Take the 12.5” x 3.5” (32 cm x 9 cm) rectangle. Fold the rectangle in half lengthwise and press along the fold to create a center crease. Open up the fold and press both longer sides towards the center crease. Fold the rectangle closed again along the original center crease. Topstitch along both longer edges of the rectangle to secure the folds in place. From this rectangle, cut the handle at 6.5” and the remaining 6” divide in half to obtain two 3” pieces that will be folded in half to become tabs. Attach the Zipper:

-I have filmed 2 videos: one is showing the zipper with the pulls already on (in case that you are applying the regular, ready to sew zipper) while the other clip in the video is showing the easiest way to attach the plastic zipper and add the zipper pulls (sliders) by yourself. If you wish to add pulls on both ends of the zipper, take care to insert them in opposite directions—from the ends toward the center. Be mindful to avoid any weird bubbles forming, which can depend on how the zipper teeth are picked up in installation. Place one outer layer piece face up. Position the zipper face down along the top edge of the fabric. Align one lining piece face down on top of the zipper. Stitch along the edge to attach the zipper. Repeat the process with the remaining outer layer and lining pieces on the other side of the zipper. Ensure that the sides are neatly overlapping and flat, then press them down. Proceed to top stitch along both sides of the zipper edge to secure them in place. Create the Pouch Body: Open the zipper halfway to facilitate turning the pouch right side out later. I suggest to add the zipper tabs right now in the beginning, as it will also secure the sliders and prevent unzipping. Trim off the excess of the zipper tape at this point. Turn the pouch right sides inside and stitch the bottom edge of the lining layer, leaving a larger opening for turning. Finger or iron press this seam open, for easier stitching. Fold the fabric pieces so that the outer layer pieces are right sides together, and the lining pieces are right sides together. Finding your centers (clipped or marked at the beginning), align your bottom edges right sides inside so that they are overlapping the zipper that will be in the middle, make sure that the tabs are in, the zipper is in the center and that everything is even. Clip or pin together both sides. Box the Corners: Press your bag nicely, making sure that everything is aligned. Stitch both sandwich edges (with zipper in the middle) closed. You can add the handle on one side of the bag by finding the center of your seams, securing the handle with the clip and sewing over. You can either sew it to just one side by securing it or you can clip it together with all two layers that will make the boxed corner and sew over. Making sure that the handle is going straight, you need to bring it to the other side and repeat the same process of aligning it to the center of your seam, securing and stitching it in place.

Finish the Pouch: Turn the pouch right side out through the opening in the lining. Push out the corners to ensure they are fully formed. Check that everything is nice and even and that there aren’t some holes or missed seams. Stitch the opening in lining closed using a slip stitch or topstitch. Press the pouch to remove any wrinkles and ensure a smooth finish. Your boxed cosmetic fabric pouch is now ready to use or gift!

I hope that this was helpful, but I am sure that watching the video will make the process even easier.

I can't wait to find time to make another video in horizontal format!  Hopefully soon.

Happy sewing,

Katarina

Pumpkin quilt block - pillow front tutorial

 

My Eerie fabric collection is already shipping and available in shops, and before doing the regular post introduction about the collection, I have prepared this fun pumpkin block tutorial.

Decorative pillow covers are the easiest and fastest way to change your home décor without a major investment. Bold and funky patterns can sometimes feel overwhelming if used in larger home décor projects but can be fantastic for smaller-scale projects like pillows. They add a touch of color and pattern to your home space. Additionally, quilting adds texture and stability to the sewing/piecing, while trimming around the edges provides a modern look.

To get the printable template, download it HERE.

The featured fabrics: “Creepy Crawlers Tang”, “In The Dark”, “Creepy Crawlers Cement” and  “Seeds Olive” by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics.

 

Materials

For 1 pillow, finished size 14" x 13.5”

(I suggest adding sashing/borders around if bigger size is needed)

 

-Fabrics:

Fabric A:  Creepy Crawlers Tang, Fat quarter

Fabric B:  In The Dark, Fat eight

Fabric C:  Creepy Crawlers Cement,  Fat eight

Fabric D:  Seeds Olive, 2.5" square

Decorative trim (pipping or similar): 2 yds

-Medium weight, one-sided fusible interfacing or batting - 16 x 16” piece 

-14"x14” pillow insert

-Cutting mat and rotary cuter 

-Ruler  

-Scissors

-Iron

-Needle and thread

-Sewing machine

-Pins, clips

-Fabric pencil or marker

 

 

CUTTING:

¼ seam allowances are included

 

Two (2) 2.5“ x 14.5” rectangles from Fabric A

Three (3) 2.5” squares from Fabric A

Eight (8) 2.75” squares from Fabric A

One (1) 2.5“ x 4.5” rectangle from Fabric A

Two (2) 2“ x 7.5” rectangles from Fabric A

Two (2) 3.5“ x 4.5” rectangles from Fabric A

Four (4) 2.75” x 4.75” rectangles from Fabric B

One (1) 2.5“ x 4.5” rectangle from Fabric B

Two (2) 2” squares from Fabric B

Four (4) 2.5” squares from Fabric C

Two (2) 2.5“ x 6.5” rectangles from Fabric C

One (1) 2.5“square from Fabric D

Pillow front: pumpkin block

 

Guided by the cutting and fabric requirements, make 4 Flying geese units.

 • Prepare the 2 ¾” (2.75") squares in fabric A for the wings and 2 ¾” x 4 ¾” (2.75” x 4.75”) in fabric B for the geese body to make the FG units. Mark a diagonal line across the wrong side of all 2 ¾” squares. Place one square on the right corner of a corresponding rectangle, right sides together. Stitch across the corner on the line. Trim off corner, leaving a 1/4" seam. Press corner up.

Place another square on the left corner of the same rectangle, right sides together. Note that the second square will overlap the first one (that’s because you need to obtain the ¼” seam allowance at the top of 

the triangle’s point). Stitch across the corner on the marked line. Trim off corner, leaving a 1/4" seam. 

Press corner up. After all the FG units are sewn together,  trim them to obtain  2 ½ ”x 4 ½ “ units.

Flippy corners on rectangles (row 2, 4 and 6):

• With wrong side up, mark all 2”corner squares in fabric B and 2.5”corner squares in fabric C in half 

diagonally to determine the central - sew line. 

• Paying close attention to the orientation of each corner square: place and align them on the 

corresponding 2” x 7.5“ (row 4) and 2.5” x 14.5“ rectangles (for row 2 and 6) in fabric A and sew along the central diagonal line. 

• Trim off corners, leaving a 1/4” seam allowance, press seams as desired, flipping the corner. 

More about flying geese construction and floppy corners, you can learn HERE.

Adding the trim

 

With right side of the pillow front up, start pinning the trim all way around, starting from one corner and rounding it slightly on all corners. Sew the trimming in place, with the smallest seam allowance possible, finishing where you started, overlapping the trim’s edges.

 

Note: there are different weights, qualities and sizes of the trims, and depending on that, you may be able or not to slightly round the corners for the nice and professional finish. Thinner and softer trimmings are more suitable for shaping, while with thicker trimmings, you may be forced to cut the trimming separately for each of the pillow’s edges and overlap the edges on all corners. 

 

Pillow back

The easiest way to make the pillow back is with simple envelope back. 

Take the rectangles cut for the pillow back (2 Fat quarters), fold and press them on the longer side (22”) in half, wrong sides inside, so that you obtain two 18 x 11” pieces. 

 

Pillow assemble

 

Overlap the back pieces, squaring them and place the pillow front with right side inside-facing the overlapped backs. Pin all layers together and cut the backs leftover edges to the size of the pillow front- 14.5" x 14”. Sew around all edges with ¼ seam allowance, rounding the corners slightly, to prevent protruding. Turn the pillow case right side out and place the pillow insert inside.

Twisted Knot Fabric Headband tutorial

In the realm of fashion, accessories are the unsung heroes that elevate an outfit from ordinary to extraordinary. Among these, headbands stand out as versatile pieces that not only add a touch of style but also serve a practical purpose. 
If you're eager to infuse your wardrobe with a dash of creativity and flair, crafting your own knot fabric headbands is a delightful endeavour that promises both style and comfort.
knot fabric headbands offer endless possibilities for expression.

Instructions:

Knot fabric headbands are not only chic and fashionable but also incredibly easy to make. With just a few materials and a bit of creativity, you can customize these headbands to suit your unique style and personality. Whether you're aiming for a bohemian vibe, a retro-inspired look, or a modern twist,

Materials Needed:

1. Fabric rectangle 8" x 20" (20 cm x 50 cm)

2. Fabric rectangle 8" x 26" (20 cm x 66 cm)

3. Fabric rectangle 3" x 8" (8 cm x 20 cm) - for elastic casing

4. Elastic band 4" long x 1" wide (10 cm x 2,5 cm)

Begin by measuring and cutting your fabric. Keep in mind that the width will determine the thickness of the headband, while the length will determine how snugly it fits around your head. If you don't want to make the double knot, but prefer to just scrape one strip through another (making just one hoop), then cut both large rectangles to the same size: 8" x 20".

1. 

   
   

2. Sew the Seam: fold all three rectangles lengthwise and stitch along the open longer edge of the fabric to create a seam, leaving both shorter ends open. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the seam.

   
   

   

3. Turn Inside Out: Carefully turn the fabric inside out so that the right side is now facing outward. Use a blunt object, such as a chopstick or pencil, to gently push out the corners and create clean edges.
   
   Fold and Iron: placing the seam in the centre, press the rectangles-tubes. This will ensure a polished finish.
   
   
   
   
   

4. Insert Elastic: Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through one end of the smallest rectangle (elastic casing), securing it with a pin or clip. Topstitch at one shorter end and then on the other end to secure it inside and prevent it from slipping through.

   
   

   Stitch elastic casing to headband: Fold the first fabric tube in half, so that the shorter ends overlap and the seam stays inside. Place one shorter end of the elastic casing on the centre, overlap both short ends over the elastic, clip and sew. Turn the bigger rectangle over it, so that the raw edge stays secured underneath. Now the other longer tube needs to go in between the first loop, so just make a hoop and then make a regular knot (tying the knot and therefore "loosing some length" is the reason why this rectangle is 6" longer than the first one). Now repeat the same process for the other side: place the shorter raw ends together, then place the other raw end of the elastic casing on the top, overlap the edges, clip and topstitch. Just push the raw edges underneath the sewn tubes and you are done!

5. 
   

   Your knot fabric headband is now ready to wear and enjoy!
   

You can watch the video for better comprehension that is available on my Instagram profile. I will make sure to film another one soon that will be uploaded to my YouTube channel with horizontal setting.

Happy sewing, Katarina