When I spotted this beautiful 6" wooden kiss lock frame at a local craft shop, I couldn't resist picking it up. It came with a set of small screws—perfect for securely fastening the layers of fabric sandwiched together.
There’s something so satisfying about thatclickof a wooden kiss lock frame closing around your handmade creation. These retro-inspired pouches are perfect for carrying small essentials—or gifting with flair.
Feel free to download the paper template I used for this bag.
🧵 Materials You’ll Need:
Outer fabric: 2 pieces (10" x 14") – quilting cotton or linen works beautifully
Lining fabric: 2 pieces (10" x 14")
Fusible fleece, foam or batting: 2 pieces (approx. 9.5" x 13.5")
6" wooden kiss lock frame
Coordinating thread
Fabric glue (optional, but helpful for positioning)
Your usual sewing tools: scissors/rotary cutter, pins or clips, iron, sewing machine
✂️TIP: If you're using directional fabric, make sure your pattern faces up from the bottom of the pouch!
Step 1:Cut your outer and lining fabrics using this template.
As my main fabric wasn't directional, I cut it as a one piece, rather than 2, shortening the central part (bottom seam allowance line).
Step 2: Fuse the Fleece
Iron the fusible fleece (or foam) to the wrong side of your outer fabric pieces or simply quilt the batting to the main fabric for more textured look, like I did.
This gives your pouch structure and a soft feel.
Step 3: Sew the Outer & Lining Pieces
Outer Fabric: Place right sides together and sew around the sides and bottom using a 1/2 " seam allowance.
Lining Fabric: Repeat the same processbut leave a 2–3" turning gapat the bottom.
Step 4: Join Outer and Lining
Turn the outer pouch right side out. Keep the lining inside out.
Nest the outer pouch inside the lining—right sides should be facing.
Align and clip top edges and sew around the entire top curve.
Pull the outer pouch through the gap you left in the lining.
Stitch the gap closed with a small ladder stitch or machine-stitch close to the edge.
Push the lining into the pouch and give everything a good press.
Step 5: Attach the Wooden Frame
Slide the top edge of your pouch into the frame evenly.
You can use a small amount of fabric glue to hold it in place.
Use the screws to fix everything together for extra security.
Repeat on the other side.
I also stitched up a matching fabric and my Adventale Renaissance ribbon handle, embellished with piping for an extra touch of flair.
I hope that this was helpful! I certainly loved creating mine!!!
If you’ve ever made a zippered boxed pouch and ended up with your cute directional fabric turned sideways (or upside down… oops), this one’s for you!
And here's my newest pouch created with the prints from my Soar collection.
Actually, I used the left over fabrics and patchwork pieces from the Patchwork hoodie so this is a great way to use those leftover blocks and similar patchwork from previous projects.
So, basically this patchwork panel was created using a quilt-as-you-go method — one of my favorite ways to build texture and use even the tiniest leftover pieces.
I started with a base measuring 20" x 16", using a piece of fleece (you could also use batting or flannel or even recycle an old thin blanket for this — it adds beautiful loft and sustainability to the project). This base acts as both your stabilizer and your quilting layer, so there’s no separate quilting step at the end.
Then the building begins.
Instead of sewing patchwork blocks first and quilting later, each fabric piece is added directly onto the batting base. I usually begin in one corner or roughly in the center — placing the first scrap right side up and stitching it down with a simple straight stitch or gentle quilting lines.
From there, I add the next piece right sides together, just like traditional patchwork. After stitching the seam, I flip the new piece open and press it flat. Because it’s attached to the batting underneath, it’s already quilted in place.
Piece by piece, scrap by scrap, the panel grows.
There’s no strict rule about shapes — you can work with strips, squares, improvised angles, or even sections of old patchwork that you’re repurposing. It’s a beautiful way to give new life to unfinished blocks or worn quilts. Each seam secures the layers together, so the texture builds naturally as you go.
As the composition expands, I continue adding pieces outward until the entire 20" x 16" base is covered.
What you’re left with is a fully quilted patchwork panel — textured, layered, and completely unique. No separate backing step. No large quilt sandwich to wrestle with. Just a steady, satisfying rhythm of stitch, flip, press, repeat.
It’s sustainable, forgiving, and perfect for transforming scraps — or even forgotten blankets — into something beautifully usable.
Here's my go-to pouch tutorial with a smart little fix: free downloadable templatethat helps you easily work with directional prints—no more guessing or flipping pieces around. Whether you're making one for yourself, as a gift, or to use up those irresistible fabric scraps, this version keeps things tidy, professional-looking, and beginner-friendly.
You can watch my video on You tube with a process—from cutting the fabric to sewing the boxed corners—so you can make these pouches with confidence (and style).
The only difference is in size (the non directional one-like this above ditsy floral burgundy one is a bit larger and the main fabric was all one piece and that I didn't cut the corners immediately.
Also, in THIS post you can find more info about embellishing the fabrics and pouch with ribbon details.
🧵 Materials You’ll Need - for the finished size 9" x 5" x 5"
Outer fabric: 2 pieces (10" x 14") – quilting cotton or linen works beautifully
Lining fabric: 2 pieces (10" x 14")
Fabric for the tabs and handle: (3.5" x 12.5") to be cut after sewing in 3 pieces
Fusible fleece, foam or batting: 2 pieces (approx. 9.5" x 13.5")
15" Zipper and pulls (1 or 2 -it's up to you)
Coordinating thread
Your usual sewing tools: scissors/rotary cutter, pins or clips, iron, sewing machine
✂️TIP: If you're using directional fabric, make sure your pattern faces up from the bottom of the pouch!
As Adventale fabric collection has a lot of cute panels that can be very inspiring and unique for gift-giving projects and has that Alphabet panel that can be such a beautiful way to turn initials into stitched art.
*discard the numbers on this first paper template-that was a first test, so it's not perfect and was improved
I started with cutting the letters M and R in 7.5" squares. I added 7.5" x 3.5" rectangles in Twinkle Little Stars Sky fabric on both sides and sew them together.
Then I added 1.5" x 14" rectangles in Jolly Ribbons Festive fabric at the top, where the zipper will be sewn to both rectangles and there should be added another 2" x 14" rectangles of another fabric for the bottom ( I added that small ditsy floral from my Plentiful collection).
Here are quilted and sewn together both sides. My lining is Twinkle Little Stars in Ruby.
I also did the other pouch but all in one fabric, using another fun letter print from the collection called Letters to Santa.
Instructions:
I like to use plastic zippers sold by the meter. They are affordable, available in many colors and they are easy to sew over, without the fear that the sewing needle might broke. While the easiest way to use them is to simply detach the sides and install the zipper pulls (sliders) only after sewing the zipper to both main fabric panel and lining, I filmed also the version with the zipper pulls on from the beginning, so I hope that this overlapping of two zipper methods will not be confusing.
Prepare the Fabric:
Cut the outer layer fabric, batting and lining fabric according to the specified dimensions. Cut the rectangle that will be used for the handle and tabs.
Ensure that all pieces are neatly cut to size. Quilt the main fabric to the batting as desired-this is to stabilize the fabric and give more structure to the bag. You can avoid this step by using some thicker fabric, like canvas or similar.
Clip the fabrics and zipper tape to mark the centers for easier matching.
Make the Handle and Tabs:
Take the 12.5” x 3.5” (32 cm x 9 cm) rectangle.
Fold the rectangle in half lengthwise and press along the fold to create a center crease.
Open up the fold and press both longer sides towards the center crease.
Fold the rectangle closed again along the original center crease.
Topstitch along both longer edges of the rectangle to secure the folds in place.
From this rectangle, cut the handle at 6.5” and the remaining 6” divide in half to obtain two 3” pieces that will be folded in half to become tabs.
Attach the Zipper:
-I have filmed 2 videos: one is showing the zipper with the pulls already on (in case that you are applying the regular, ready to sew zipper) while the other clip in the video is showing the easiest way to attach the plastic zipper and add the zipper pulls (sliders) by yourself. If you wish to add pulls on both ends of the zipper, take care to insert them in opposite directions—from the ends toward the center. Be mindful to avoid any weird bubbles forming, which can depend on how the zipper teeth are picked up in installation.
Place one outer layer piece face up.
Position the zipper face down along the top edge of the fabric.
Align one lining piece face down on top of the zipper.
Stitch along the edge to attach the zipper.
Repeat the process with the remaining outer layer and lining pieces on the other side of the zipper. Ensure that the sides are neatly overlapping and flat, then press them down. Proceed to top stitch along both sides of the zipper edge to secure them in place.
Create the Pouch Body:
Open the zipper halfway to facilitate turning the pouch right side out later.
I suggest to add the zipper tabs right now in the beginning, as it will also secure the sliders and prevent unzipping.
Trim off the excess of the zipper tape at this point.
Turn the pouch right sides inside and stitch the bottom edge of the lining layer, leaving a larger opening for turning. Finger or iron press this seam open, for easier stitching.
Fold the fabric pieces so that the outer layer pieces are right sides together, and the lining pieces are right sides together.
Finding your centers (clipped or marked at the beginning), align your bottom edges right sides inside so that they are overlapping the zipper that will be in the middle, make sure that the tabs are in, the zipper is in the center and that everything is even. Clip or pin together both sides.
Box the Corners:
Press your bag nicely, making sure that everything is aligned.
Stitch both sandwich edges (with zipper in the middle) closed.
You can add the handle on one side of the bag by finding the center of your seams, securing the handle with the clip and sewing over. You can either sew it to just one side by securing it or you can clip it together with all two layers that will make the boxed corner and sew over. Making sure that the handle is going straight, you need to bring it to the other side and repeat the same process of aligning it to the center of your seam, securing and stitching it in place.
Finish the Pouch:
Turn the pouch right side out through the opening in the lining.
Push out the corners to ensure they are fully formed. Check that everything is nice and even and that there aren’t some holes or missed seams.
Stitch the opening in lining closed using a slip stitch or topstitch.
Press the pouch to remove any wrinkles and ensure a smooth finish.
Your boxed cosmetic fabric pouch is now ready to use or gift!
I hope that this was helpful, but I am sure that watching the video will make the process even easier.
I can't wait to find time to make another video in horizontal format! Hopefully soon.
I am so thrilled and excited to launch my newest quilt pattern in my Etsy shop: Winterflake!!! 🌿
This quilt pattern is really so easy and enjoyable to make, as it’s created with units obtained with strip piecing technique. Strip piecing is really just an easier, time-saving method and patchwork technique created by sewing multiple fabric strips together to create a composite unit (a strip set) that is then cut to obtain smaller, multi-piece segments. Strip piecing eliminates the need to work with small, individual pieces of fabric.
Prior to cutting your fabric into strips, it is important to check if the fabric edges are straight. To check the edges fold the fabric in half, matching the selvedges. Start cutting strips after ensuring a straight edge at 90° between the WOF and the selvage. Having an accurate seam allowance is necessary for obtaining precise strip sets, especially where multiple strips are sewn together.
This pattern comes in different quilt sizes:
- baby: 54.25” x 54.25” - throw: 74” x 74” - bed: 108.5” x 108.5”
But there's also the possibility to play around the baby size, adding blocks to only two sides rather than all four, making a rectangle shape rather than square.
This pattern is the first quilt created with my newest fabric collection: Botanist that is available in shops worldwide.
During this week, on my Instagram, I will present several stunning versions using Winterflake quilt pattern in different Art Gallery Fabrics.
Quilts were created by my amazing group of testers that I can’t thank enough for all the help, support, engagement and beautiful work on this quilt pattern:
Sewing Arts team: Julie and Rachel@sewingarts-made BABY quilt - theyhave the kits available in their QUILT shop
These are just some pics of their amazing work, so I suggest to click on their pages to see more and show them some love.
Also, to celebrate my Winterflake release I decided to do an exclusive Instagram giveaway!🎉 I will choose 5x2 lucky winners and email the pattern 💚
To enter the giveaway and win this pattern, please just go to my Instagram account - @katarinaroccella and see the details.
* The giveaway will be closed on Friday, December 9th (12 -noon, Central European time) and winners will be announced there same day.
If interested in purchasing this or any other pattern from my Etsy shop, be sure to enter the code: FAV15 to get 15% off. There is a regular 15% of discount available even without the code till Saturday.
I have used this pattern to make cute Nordika doll (Nordika collection by Jeni Baker), that was featured in the December 2013 issue of Sew magazine UK.
I am thrilled that now I can share this pattern with all of you and that I can use my Recollection line to sew a few dolls.
Doll dimensions: 7 x 9.5" (17.5 x 24 cm)
Needed supplies:
1. fabric: this is great project using scraps
2. small piece of heavy weight fusible interfacing (for the face)
3. sewing machine, thread (for the best results - use Aurifil), scissors, pins, iron
4. embellishments (optional): buttons, ribbons, sequins etc.
Using the paper templates (2 pieces), cut the front pieces.With the 1/4 cm seam allowance, sew them together, right sides inside. Press the seam.
1. The shape you got - is the front side of the doll.
Using that shape cut the back side of the doll.
2. For the doll's face: use the provided drawing-design to either print it on the fabric and use it like that or to embroider over it. Another option is to use transfer paper and pen to copy the design onto white piece of fabric or felt. You can easily hand embroider it, to add a bit of flair and texture.
-I have transferred the face lines onto the heavy weight white fusible interfacing (that way I could easily just iron it in place) and I have embroidered it with Aurifil floss. You can customize the face by removing or adding some lines to the original face drawing.
If you don't like the given shape for the face, you can simply cut 3" circle and stitch it.
Once you are happy with the face, cut out the shape and position it on the head. Sew the doll’s face to the front side of the doll, using the zig zag stitch.
3. Place the front and back piece, right sides together, pin and sew using 1/4” seam allowance, leaving a gap at the bottom that will allow turning the doll inside out.
4. Snip the curves a bit to prevent the shape from scrunching.
Turn the doll inside out.
Fill it with stuffing. Hand stitch the opening gap closed. Add small sequins, buttons or any other cute details to the cheeks as embellishment.
This doll can be a great gift-giving item, for the Holidays. It can be used for kids to play with it or it can be used as a home decor.
If you scale the template to be much bigger in size (like one of the dolls above), it can be nice pillow.
Obviously, if using it as a pillow, don't exaggerate with the craft details, especially sharp plastic items.
Hi! I'm proud mama of 3 gorgeous kids that are true inspiration for my work. I love to create and express myself through many forms of art: collages, drawings, illustrations, calligraphy, graphic design, textile and surface design, printing, photography, sewing.....
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